Canada’s Cape Breton Island, One terrific place to vacation

Written by: Pat Woods
Published in: Lovin’ Life After 50 – December 2006

"Moose!" an Australian voice called out as 38 heads swivelled left and hands fumbled with cameras.  Alas, the nibbling moose in the roadside bog disappeared too quickly.

Despite the rain, it was a beautiful summer day on Cape Breton Island which juts into the Atlantic Ocean on Nova Scotia’s tip.  Husband Rob and I were in comfortable leather seats on an escorted Ambassatours three-day Cape Breton trip.  While driver Tom expertly navigated tight turns on the curvy mountain highway, we relaxed and saw ocean vistas, verdant forests, wildflowers and craggy mountains on the famous 180 mile Cabot Trail.

We passed a panorama of woodlands, farms, villages and pretty churches.  A kaleidoscope of lupine – purple, blue and pink resembling Texas bluebonnets – splashed roadsides and the lush green medians with color. 
In tiny Chéticamp, we saw local women create beautiful hooked rugs and wall hangings.  Acadian French heritage permeates the local culture.

Fishing and tourism sustain the economy in this pristine, sparsely populated area.  Moose, deer, links and rabbits are plentiful.  From our water-view lunch table, we watched woodchucks scurry into burrows.

At the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site in Baddeck, we saw the famous inventor’s humanitarian side, watched a fascinating video, and viewed artifacts and family photos.

We stayed at the Inverary Resort on the scenic Bras d’Or Lakes.  “The largest inland salt-water lake on North America sustains ocean fish, lobster and mussels,” the resorts boat operator told us.  “In winter, seals enter the lake on ice flows.”

Cape Breton’s scenic hills are alive with Celtic music.  A fiddler stepped on the bus to entertain us.  While on a whale watching boat, sea lions bobbing in the ocean watched us.

In Cape Breton’s rolling heartland, sugar maples, tall deciduous hardwoods and ferns compete for sunlight.  Autumn reds and yellows are spectacular in rugged, heavily wooded Cape Breton National Park.

AS the bus climbed to higher elevation, a veil of mist drifted down the rain-soaked mountain.  Winters in this rugged land surrounded by the sea bring fierce driving winds and sudden storms that accumulate 200 inches of snow.

At the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada, costumed guides assume the roles of 1744 soldiers and residents.  While touring some of the 25 buildings, we learned the fall of this fortified seaport and trading center to the British in 1760 changed Canada’s history.

The Ambassatours coach was a “kneeling bus” on which the front end lowers for easy on/off.  A master at luggage handling, Tom was always there to give a hand off the bottom step.  Our fellow travelers from Germany, Switzerland, China, Scotland, Australia and Canada were congenial, polite and interesting conversationalists.

If you go
Our Cape Breton tour began and ended in Halifax, where we arrived on VIA Rail Canada.  We wheeled our luggage directly from the station into the adjacent Westin Nova Scotian Halifax Hotel (http://www.westin.ns.ca/ or 877-993-7846).  Watching harbour traffic and the fog bank form and lift from our harborfront room was fascinating.  We relaxed in the indoor pool and fitness center.  The Westin’s free Hummer shuttle dropped us at the Public Gardens.  The Westin is one block from a Super Store and within walking distance of many waterfront attractions, shops and restaurants.

Enroute back to Halifax, driver Tom dropped us off at the Hilton Garden Inn Halifax Airport (http://www.hiltongardeninns.com/ or 877-STAY-HGI), where we enjoyed a lovely dinner and relaxing swim.  We appreciated the fridge, microwave and coffee maker in our room.  I printed our boarding passes in the hotel’s business center, and the free shuttle bus dropped us off at the airport.

Ambassatours, the company with the kilts, offers many escorted overnight and day tours in Atlantic Canada.  Visit www.ambassatours.com; call 800-656-7173 or your travel agent.